Yamnuska has a reputation for terrifying routes on terrible rock. However after climbing Dreambed last year, and now Devil’s Right Hand, i’m starting to question if maybe Yamnuska should better be known for quite fun, but still occasionally tricky routes on moderately poor (but not that bad) rock.
Devil’s right hand is a super fun, 6 pitch modern/mixed route located in the Bowl area on the right (east) side of Yamnuska. While this is technically a trad climb, I placed only one piece of gear, and found the bolting to be sufficient to consider this more of a “spicy sport climb” with some optional gear on some of the easier but more run out sections.
Overall I found this route to be pretty moderate, only a few tricky sections (all well protected) and surprisingly decent rock overall. The first two pitches were definitely a little bit poor in terms of rock quality, and also some of the harder climbing on the route. However, the upper pitches made up for this with much more interesting climbing and better rock quality as you get higher on the route. The climbing itself is pretty good, with the last pitch being the real money pitch in terms of position and quality.
We left a little bit late for this one, suited up and ready to climb at the base of the route pretty close to noon in mid July. Given that Yamnuska as a whole faces mostly South/East, this was a decent strategy to avoid the hottest parts of the day. This route also faces slightly more east than some of the other routes, and helps this one stay slightly cooler than some of the more west facing lines on Yamnuska.
We managed to finish the route in around 4 hours (not including approach or walk off), largely due to the lack of placing gear and relatively short pitches. Overall, a nice route with pretty consistently fun pitches, well protected and a great outing if you are looking for a quick hit moderate in the low 5.11 range. The cruxes are short and well protected, and the last pitch on the route offers enough interest and exposure to make the route itself worthwhile. Very nice and quite tame by Yamnuska standards.
Route Description
Devil’s Right Hand, 6 pitches, 170m
Gear: 15 alpine draws, 60m rope, small single rack BD #0.3 to #2, optional small set of stoppers.
Pitch 1 (5.11b, 30m): From the start (located a few dozen meters to the right of Dreambed), climb up a line of bolts following a shallow groove to the top of a pedestal (5.10) on poor rock. Step left, following more bolts through a few well protected but tricky face moves (5.11b) on questionable rock through another groove and more face climbing (5.10+) to a semi hanging bolted belay station.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 20m): Step right making a tricky move around the corner and up to a ledge with a bolted belay, following shallow corner on mediocre rock. Can be combined with the first pitch with some longer draws.
Pitch 3 (5.11a, 30m): Climb up the corner and reach a small ledge, move left and climb a cruxy, sequential (but fun) face section past several bolts until you reach a slopey foot ramp. Move left to continue past two bolts into easier terrain. Continue up to a ledge and right to another bolted belay.
Pitch 4 (5.11b, 30m): (Right variation, bolts). Note the left variation is a corner that takes gear (10c). Follow bolts up a shallow corner up to a face with a bulge. Thin face moves take you up to a ledge with another bolted belay.
Pitch 5 (5.11a, 30m): From the belay, climb up to a shallow right leaning corner with sustained moves to a bulge. More tricky moves overcome the bulge into another left leaning corner. Climbing gets easier as you move into a more stepped section of easier climbing up and left to another bolted belay.
Pitch 6 (5.10c, 30m): A really fun and spectacular pitch. Well worth the price of admission! Follow a right facing corner up and right from the belay with some optional gear. Reach a small pedestal. Make a tricky move to gain a groove that gains a small ledge below the roof. Big, positive holds and bolts get you out and left through the roof. Reach a shallow corner above with big blocky holds. Lots of gear opportunities exist as there are no bolts after the roof. Continue to the top of the wall, finding a bolted anchor on the left.
Descent: While it is possible to rappel, it is not recommended. Instead, walk off the back to the right following the regular Yamnuska scrambler’s route. It’s quicker to circle back under the face and take the climber’s trail back to the parking lot from here.
