Climbing on the Telltale Heart at Ravens Crag in Banff Alberta 5.13a

The Hangboard Protocol That Worked for Me

Hangboarding is one of those training tools that is extremely effective, but it is tricky to get right in terms of intensity, frequency, and balance with other forms of training and climbing. When I first started hangboarding, I had just sent my first 5.13 which at the time felt like the absolute limit of my…

How to Climb 5.13 // Part II

In my last post, I talked about my journey from my first days climbing at Wasootch, to my first 5.10a later that season in 2012 to my first 5.12b and 5.12c in 2014 and 2016. This post covers the training season leading up to my first 5.13a in June of 2018. Toes in the Water…

Heart Line Climb (17 pitches, 5.9)

Heart line climb is a multi-pitch route located on the north-west side of Heart Mountain near Canmore Alberta. It is a link up of a number of older routes up a fairly defined ridgeline on the mountain, mostly retrofitted with newer bolts and anchors where needed. It is roughly 17 pitches long, starting at Heart…

The Tall Storey (8 pitches, 5.11c)

It has always been a dream of mine to climb a massive, unbroken, slightly overhanging wall. It was one of the main motivations for me to improve as a climber, so that one day I could access these routes. Back in 2015, I climbed The Tall Storey, a route that offered all that I was…